Vauclair Horlogerie · Besançon · bench opened 2011

Levée

levée — the impulse the escapement hands the balance, three times every second, for sixty-two hours without being touched.

One calibre. Three references. Sixty watches a year, each finished, cased, timed and posted from this room — no retailer, no distributor, no second price.

Jewels
27
Beat
21 600 vph
Reserve
62 h
Plate
⌀ 30.00 mm
0.002.604.356.909.80Case back+9.80 · 1 partBalance · escapement+6.90 · 9 jewelsBridges+4.35 · 4 partsGoing train+2.60 · 14 jewelsMainplate±0.00 · datum
Réf. 01 Granges · 7 400 €Réf. 02 Vermeil · 8 900 €Réf. 04 Nuit · 11 250 €
Plate 01 · VH-19 elevation, exploded · drawn at the bench, 2026
A watchmaker seated at a long bench under a daylight lamp, seen from above
Bench two, 14 rue des Granges · Tuesday, 07:40
Two hands holding fine tweezers and a brush over a small assembly on a dark bench mat
Fitting the third wheel · Hélène Vauclair
Delivered rate−8−40+4+8+1.2Serial 019-041, dial up, 24 h · s/day

We publish every figure we work to, including the ones that are not flattering.

A finished VH-19 leaves here inside ±4 seconds a day across six positions, measured at 24 hours and again at 240. If yours falls outside that in the first two years we regulate it at our cost and pay the postage both ways.

Plate 02 — the lift, full width

Nine point eight millimetres, from mainplate to case back

Detail A · escapement, 10:1±0.00 mainplate+2.60 going train+4.35 bridges+6.90 escapement+9.80 case backDetail B · jewel setting, 20:19.806.904.352.60SHEET 1H.V.4:111.02.26VAUCLAIR HORLOGERIE — CALIBRE VH-19 — ELEVATION, EXPLODED — SHEET 1 OF 4 — SCALE 4:1 — H.V. 11.02.26

The drawing runs past both edges of your screen because it does on paper too: sheet 1 is 840 mm wide and lives pinned above bench one.

The lift · five layers

Assembly runs upward. So does this page.

Each panel below pins where its layer sits on the drawing. Scroll and the movement builds — mainplate first, case back last, exactly the order it happens on the bench.

±0.00 mainplate+2.60 going train+4.35 bridges+6.90 escapement+9.80 case back
±0.00 mm

Mainplate

German silver, 30.00 mm across, 1.20 mm thick, perlaged before a single hole is jewelled. Everything measured on this site is measured from its upper face.

1 part · 9 jewel holes · 3 h 10 at the bench
+2.60 mm

Going train

Barrel 80 teeth, centre 64, third 60, fourth 56, escape 15. The barrel is wound by hand; there is no rotor and there will not be one.

14 parts · 14 jewels · 5 h 40
+4.35 mm

Bridges

Four bridges, anglage cut by hand at 45°, inward angles left in because a machine cannot make them. Each takes between forty minutes and two hours depending on how the burr lifts.

4 parts · 6 screws · 7 h 20
+6.90 mm

Escapement

Free-sprung balance, 10.00 mm, four timing weights, overcoil formed on a brass block. This is the layer that decides whether a watch is finished or merely assembled.

9 parts · 9 jewels · 11 h 00
+9.80 mm

Case back

Sapphire, 2.00 mm, sealed on a 0.90 mm nitrile gasket and tested to 5 bar. The serial is engraved on the inner flange, not on the glass, so a polish cannot remove it.

1 part · 5 bar tested · 0 h 40
Three references · one movement

The only thing that changes is the case, the dial and the height.

VAUCLAIRBESANÇONPlate 03 · Réf. 02 Vermeil · 1:1 at 38.4 mmDrawn, not photographed. We do not own a photograph of a watch that is still being made.
  • Shared across all threeCalibre VH-19
  • CrystalSapphire, box, 1.8 mm, AR inside
  • Water5 bar tested, every watch
  • Strap19 mm, five hides held in stock
  • Serial019-001 onward, inner flange
Réf. 017 400 €

Granges

Slate grey dial, sandblasted, no running seconds. 38.4 mm across and 9.80 mm high — the thinnest we can make and still fit a 62-hour barrel.

  • Height9.80 mm
  • Lug to lug45.2 mm
  • Delivery14 months
Réf. 028 900 €

Vermeil

Frosted silver dial with applied gold indices and small seconds at six. The extra 0.60 mm of height is the sub-dial bridge, nothing else.

  • Height10.40 mm
  • Lug to lug45.2 mm
  • Delivery14 months
Réf. 0411 250 €

Nuit

Grand feu enamel in deep navy, fired five times, and we lose roughly two dials in five. Twelve a year, which is why there is no Réf. 03.

  • Height11.20 mm
  • Lug to lug46.8 mm
  • Delivery22 months
All three, measured side by side →
On the bench

Why one calibre

H·V
A second calibre would double the drawings, the tooling and the spare parts, and halve the time I spend on the only part a customer can feel — the finishing. I would rather make the same movement for thirty years and get it right in year eleven.
Hélène VauclairWatchmaker · trained Besançon 1994, bench opened 2011
The hands of a craftsperson working a small steel component against a filing block
What happens after you own one

Every watch comes back here, and the tariff is on the wall.

Full service every five years: strip, clean, two new mainspring gaskets, crystal polish, re-oil and a ten-day timing run. €680, nine weeks, no estimate theatre. If the barrel needs replacing it is €980 and we tell you before we start.

Bench one, filing a pallet-fork horn · exposure 1/60 at f/2.8, north window, 14 rue des Granges
Fourteen months · €1 500 deposit · sixty a year

Twenty-two places left for 2027.

A deposit holds a slot, not a specification — you choose the reference and the strap eight weeks before we case your movement, and the deposit is refundable in full until the dial is ordered.

  • Deposit€1 500, refundable until the dial is ordered
  • Delivery14 months · 22 months for Réf. 04
  • PartsHeld 30 years from the last watch delivered
A hand steadying a graver against a turning workpiece, the background thrown out of focus
Turning a barrel arbor on the Schaublin-pattern lathe · 2026